Boulevard 80-Acre Hoppy Wheat

Hidden away, there is a decent beer here.  Unfortunately, 80-Acre's best features are shrouded by others decidedly more mediocre.

80-Acre Hoppy Wheat Beer

Boulevard Brewing Company

5.5% ABV

20 IBUs

The color of Boulevard’s 80-Acre Hoppy Wheat is yellow… “ish.”  Yellowish; and, paradoxically, pale (as in more yellow than, say, brown) yet opaque due to its obvious unfiltered character.  As the beer sits, hazy particles continuously settle like so many gently falling snowflakes.

A white, not particularly thick head, tops the beer.  While the head fades rapidly, it leaves evidence of its presence with notable lacing lining the inner-glass.  Much less tracing is provided by the liquid portion of 80-Acre.

Continuing with the paradoxical nature that constitutes much of this beer, the aroma underwhelms while also pleasing.  Underwhelming is the mildness of the scent, while pleasing is the aroma's content which is a thin fragrance of fresh grasses.

Upon initial tasting, 80-Acre's most prominent flaw makes itself immediately evident: excessive carbonation.  The bubbly bite smacks the tongue at once, and continues to burst throughout the palate.

The carbonation is unfortunately overwhelming.  That carbonation masks what is otherwise appealing. Working past the overly-done peppery pop, one encounters a citrus flavor profile that offers orange upfront, followed by a touch of lemon.  Throughout there is a mellow, but farmhouse fresh (more paradox!) twist; perhaps a yeast derivative.  

Sadly, all that goodness is only revealed via the most dedicated of effort.  More casual drinking may render 80-Acre seemingly little more than a lightly alcoholic citrus soda.

Not unexpected of a wheat beer, the mouthfeel is thin, and absent is any trace of malts.  Perhaps some added stickiness or thickness to the body would work well to counter 80-Acre's carbonation flaw, but one shall never know. 

80-Acre is a sort of abstraction.  Or, as described throughout, a paradox.  It’s thin and light.  Even refreshing in a sense.  Yet, it is a wheat beer with an undeniable peppery spice.  While it doesn't taste bad, 80-Acre is much less appealing overall than Lagunitas’ Lil Sumpin’ Sumpin, a beer of a similar style.

Maybe most disappointing is that better is expected of Boulevard.  The Kansas City brewer makes delicious beers.  Grainstorm and Tank 7 are two examples greatly enjoyed by this reviewer.  80-Acre hardly matches that same level of magnificence. 

While 80-Acre is not necessarily to be avoided, it neither deserves a recommendation.  TheCraftBeerGuru.com rates it a total of 2 stars (maybe 2.5) out of five. 

Boulevard's 80-Acre Hoppy Wheat Beer is a paradox.  Unfortunately, what's paradoxical is why such a potentially beautiful beer was prohibited from flourishing by a brewer much better than such an amateur error...

Cheers!

Freigeist Geisterzug Gose

In the case of this blog, the status of Guru is self-proclaimed.  Even given that hubris, some modesty reveals that this site is more precisely that of the American Craft Beer Guru. 

Exposure to great beer surely has no need to be limited to one's domestic borders.  So, a joyous effort is being made to expand such horizons.  Thus, today's review is of Freigeist Geisterzug Gose from Gasthaus-Brauerei Braustelle.  

But, first, some education is order.  Mostly, my own.  Lesson of the day: Gose versus Gueuze.

Should we retain but one thing from today's shared learning, let it be this: Besides similarity in name (and, perhaps color), these two styles are markedly different. 

So, let us consider what the Freigeist Geisterzug Gose is not: Namely, a Gueuze.

A Gueuze is Belgian.  The beer of this review is German, and a niche German style at that.  

While the names of these styles may be easily confused, the flavor profiles of Gueuze and this particular Gose, at least, are not.  A Gueuze is a lambic of particular type; a combination of young and old lambics.  And, thus, boldly sour.  Gose is certainly not sour. And, frankly, far from bold. 

So what is a Gose? Well, a German beer featuring the surprising component of malted wheat.  This style's roots are firmly planted in Leipzig.

This particular Gose was brewed “with spruce tips,” and served to your reviewer in a tulip.

Freigeist Geisterzug Gose

Gasthaus-Brauerei Braustelle

5.0% ABV

The Freigeist Geisterzug Gose, while hazy, was relatively light in color, though more orange than the hue of wheat.  It produced little to no head, and left an equally trivial amount of lacing.  

The aroma was elusive, but influenced most by the mineral quality of the Gose’s water content.  

Like the aroma, the taste, aftertaste, and mouthfeel of the Freigeist Geisterzug Gose were also very mild.  Truly, this beer was an exercise in subtlety.  Whereas this may serve to disappoint in other cases, it matched expectations well here.

This Gose should not be described as underwhelming.  Better would be refined. 

This beer, while light and airy, carried itself well.  It avoided the feeling of cheapness.  Contrasting this to the  American lite lager, the Gose has the esteem of royalty.   This is a beer worthy of respect amongst bigger, more audacious styles.    

Delicate aspects of the Freigeist Geisterzug Gose benefited from the beer opening.  As it sat, features of the flavor profile became more prevalent.  

The roof of the mouth was softly tingled by a dry vinous bite. Some brininess was balanced well by a satisfying lemony trait.  An appealing (but as in all aspects: mild) cereal character was present throughout.  

It wouldn't be wrong to categorize the Freigeist Geisterzug Gose as a bit watery.  With some research completed after, and retrospect applied, this attribute was hardly deserving of complaint.  On a sweltering day, as it was during the present review, this beer would be a wonderful, adequately refreshing choice.

And that very water, indigenous only to the place of this beer's birth, provided a slightly salty note that, like this beer in general, was delightfully restrained. 

The Freigeist Geisterzug Gose was, in a word, “pleasant.”  With no experience with others from the style to compare, however, TheCraftBeerGuru.com cannot credibly rate nor recommend this beer.  But can say with honesty, that it was thoroughly enjoyed.

It certainly encourages continued exploration of great beers beyond this country's confines.  If all appeal as well as the Gose, what a wondrous journey this shall be!

Cheers!

Loose Cannon from Heavy Seas

If Heavy Seas’ Loose Cannon is an average craft beer (and, truly, it is slightly above) than the Golden Age of Beer has arrived.

Loose Cannon from Heavy Seas

7.25 % ABV

While nothing here is particularly exceptional, this beer adequately meets most expectations of the American India Pale Ale style.

A relative lack of bitterness is a singular disappointment.  With the self-assumed nickname of “Hop3” (“Hop-Cubed,” as in the three times Loose Cannon receives hops during the brewing process), there comes the expectation of a big bitter bite.  Unfortunately, it was found to be mostly missing.

This likely accounts for the surprising score of only 45 bitterness units for a beer genuinely “triple-hopped.”

For the purposes of this review, Loose Cannon was delivered from the cask.  In color, it was more brown than a grapefruit but its flavor profile reflected characteristics of said fruit.

Accompanying the grapefruit trait was more than a note of pineapple.  Loose Cannon was much more tropical than piney.  A bit more floral than earthy.

An interesting, and mostly desirable malt-like aftertaste lingered upon follow-through.  

Loose Cannon’s aroma was not overwhelming but shared many of the same aspects as the flavor profile and served well to prepare the taster for the drink to follow.

If one were to request a “good IPA” at the local pub, the barkeep would not be wrong to deliver Loose Cannon.  

While not especially remarkable, Heavy Seas’ Loose Cannon is certainly a 3 star (of 5) beer.  TheCraftBeerGuru.com recommends it.  It may especially work well as an IPA to introduce the inexperienced craft beer drinker to the style.  

Cheers!

For Whom The Belg Tolls, The Fort Collins Brewery

For Whom the Belg Tolls...

Metallica??? 

No. For Whom the Belg Tolls!

Hemingway??? 

No!! For Whom the Belg Tolls; the recently released Belgian Extra Special Bitter (ESB) from The Fort Collins Brewery (5.6% ABV, 34 IBUs). 

Image courtesy MSBeer.com

Such a title, remindful of the artists named above, quickly brings to thought strong passions - the power of prose, the violence of heavy metal rock music.  

So, it's unfortunate how utterly listless one finds a beer sharing such a similar, stimulating moniker. 

The Fort Collins Brewery fails to mention For Whom the Belg Tolls on its website, but another site describe it as a "Belgian session beer."  Indeed, it is sessionable. To a fault.  It achieves such easy drinkability at the immense sacrifice of body and character. 

The Fort Collins Brewery is a growing beer-producer and has been in the game since 2003.  While capable of producing quality beer (their 1900, an amber lager, is at least decent), they severely miss the mark with For Whom the Belg Tolls. 

The beer was served to this reviewer from draft to a tulip.  It produced a persistent head, approximately an inch in thickness.  That head, snow white, was more cream than foam, and left behind pleasing layered tracing along the inner glass.

Beautiful, no doubt. 

The tint was amber and surprisingly dark.  On the strength of the aesthetically appealing white top especially, For Whom the Belg Toll’s overall appearance was striking.

Appearance, though, was about all that impressed from this beer.

The drinker’s nose was met with hardly any aroma of note.  Which suited this beer appropriately as nothing that followed was any more remarkable.  

So far as the scent goes, more was extracted from a remaining hint of glass cleanser than from the beer itself.  Seriously, that tepid. 

Upon reaching the mouth, For Whom the Belg Tolls continued to disappoint  Immediately noticeable was the startling absence of any expected spicy yeast bite. Sadly, this seemed a “Belgian” in name only.

Meagerly fighting through the mostly watery flavor profile was a gentle malt backbone that was accented (barely) by a touch of lime (mostly upon the front of the palate), and some equally subtle orange peel (which peaked at the middle).

The mouthfeel did have some very mild stickiness.  And, while the flavor was not nearly as lackluster as the scent, it was only marginally better.   Far too light.

In retrospect, the highlight of For Whom the Belg Tolls was its appearance.  

It missed the worst with its aroma (of which it nearly completely lacked).  In the middle of the good/bad spectrum was the content of the beer's flavor, which also left very much to be desired.

This is a beer that TheCraftBeerGuru.com can not recommend. 1 star (out of a possible 5).

Pass on this one.  If set on drinking a Fort Collins production, opt for the 1900.

Cheers.

Rustico, Alexandria, VA

From the same maestro that capably tunes the beer collection at TheCraftBeerGuru favorite, Churchkey, is another hit among enthusiasts, Rustico in Alexandria, Virginia. 

Greg Engert (PDF link) is the beer director at both Rustico and Churchkey.  Relative to nearly all other bars, especially those within the D.C. Metro area, Rustico is outstanding.  Unfortunately, it falls just ever so slightly short of attaining the rarefied air upon which Churchkey’s status exists.

Rustico achieves success with its deluxe beer selection...

...and enticing Happy Hour specials.  

Direct your attention to the bottom line of chalk text.

It fails (and only relative to Churchkey, mind you) in ambiance and knowledge of staff.  

Conveniently located not further than a mile from the Braddock Road station on D.C’s Metro Blue/Yellow Lines, Rustico may be reached by a short walk.  The jaunt entails skirting a bit of neighborhood that appears rough, but is likely more bark than bite; and, in either case, mostly avoidable.  One major highway must be navigated, but is made easily passable by a smartly placed crosswalk.  

Thankfully Rustico’s interior is more inviting than its somewhat frightful all-brick façade.

Modern, open décor, decidedly industrial, marks the interior.  While Churchkey’s dungeon-like dark shadows evoke thoughts of a speakeasy, Rustico is bright and inviting.  Walls are southwestern American with a rough, rocky appearance.  Frankly, a bit rustic as the name rightly suggests.  Ceilings are high, and the bar area seems fresh with large open spaces.  A small patio area beckons patrons to enjoy the spring weather.

Much of the beer menu is shared with Churchkey.  A very good thing.  Beverages are served in glassware and at temperatures best suited to each.  Prices are reasonable, and made better by a satisfying Happy Hour special: $2.00 off drafts, and $3.50 craft beer in cans, nightly, from 4-7:00 p.m.  Patrons may choose from full pours or 4 oz. tastings.  Two of TheCraftBeerGuru’s most preferred offerings were available on draft: Great Divide’s Chocolate Oak Aged Yeti, and On The Wings of Armageddon from D.C. Brau.

So velvety smooth.  The Yeti reveals itself.

During Happy Hour, food choices are limited to a restricted menu.  “Snacks” as Rustico refers to them.  Two deep-fried deviled eggs, though, were a solid choice.  Their subtle crunch provided a needed and savory, warm time-out during a dedicated beer session.  

A worthy "snack," indeed.

So, in which ways is Churchkey superior to Rustico?  Mostly in beer-knowledge, both that of the staff and the patrons.  Churchkey is like water in a craft beer desert, drawing the District’s advocates to congregate, imbibe, and converse intellectually about beer culture.  Rustico is more of a “spot.”  It is too much a product of its suburban location.  While the service was friendly, at times the barkeep seemed a bit unfamiliar with the product available.  A sin likely not tolerated at Churchkey.  

Moreover, the crowd here was of a different sort than that expected of Churchkey; more "hip", than hip to beer culture.  While Churchkey warmly embraces its uniqueness, something about Rustico is all too familiar.   It suffers slightly from a cliche character remindful of a chain eatery.  

Rustico’s minute flaws are only apparent to the most snobbish of beer fans.  Because of its pedigree, judgment of Rustico is measured in degrees of excellence.  Minor missteps delineate levels of greatness.  While Churchkey succeeds throughout, Rustico has instances (though, few) of shortcoming.  

It lacks the spirit of the craftbeer community that so passionately drives the essence at Churchkey.  

Yet, it's definitely worth another visit.  Upon the first, Rustico receives 3.5 (of 5) stars from TheCraftBeerGuru.com and a certain recommendation.  Take advantage of the Happy Hour and tell them TheCraftBeerGuru sent you.  And, if your travels take you into the heart of the city, be sure to visit Churchkey as well.

Cheers.

Dominion's Oak Barrel Stout

A wise man once asked, "What's In a Name?"

In this case, a beer that defies its expectations.  But for good?  Or bad? 

Oak Barrel Stout from The Old Dominion Brewing Company

6.1% ABV

25 IBUs

To best couch those expectations, one must note before drinking, that despite the "barrel" reference in this Dominion beer's title, it is left ambiguous whether this is actually aged in barrels. It is only clear that "Oak Barrel", in this case, references the chips with which this brew is dry hopped. 

A stout aged in bourbon barrels (which it is unclear whether this was), is typically characterized by bold, rich booziness. Among other powerful traits, of course. So, with a name like Oak Barrel Stout, one would not be wrong to expect a beer ambitious by nature. 

Which, disappointingly, this is not.  This Oak Barrel Stout may be, in fact, the complete opposite; a testament to subtlety.  For any type of stout, not just one with such an intriguing name, this one from Dominion, in most all facets, may even be described as relatively delicate.

So, join in the Oak Barrel Stout tasting experience...

Oak Barrel Stout delivers a fluffy, dirty head, at least an inch thick with staying power. The liquid is black, like the fluid form of the outer parts of an Oreo.  

Spotty lacing

The placid nature of this beer is first apparent by smell.  Oak Barrel's aroma is tremendously mild; almost easy to miss.  Other than a hint of vanilla, there exists little of specificity to note. 

Two aspects of Oak Barrel miss immediately: the mouthfeel and the carbonation.  The texture is much too thin for the style, and the carbonation is flat like a cola left open in the fridge too long.  Neither flaw, though, is so overwhelming as to be a deal-breaker. 

Just disappointing. 

While not egregiously sweet, Oak Barrel provides a sugariness across the palate that becomes more vanilla in nature in the aftertaste.

Second to that sugar, Oak Barrel delivers a timid walnut characteristic.  The flavor profile certainly lacks from the relative low alcohol by volume.  A whiskey kick, something to warm the throat, would really serve this beer well.  

The things that work?  Oak Barrel is a really smooth beer (even, perhaps, "refined"), easy to finish, and inviting enough to make one not afraid to ask for another. It's initial appearance was also superb.   And, most worthy of praise, no single aspect comes close to repugnant.  

It simply fails to meet expectations.  Expectations stoked by Dominion's bold but, ultimately, poorly chosen name.   

2 out of a possible 5 stars from TheCraftBeerGuru.com.  

There are many preferable stouts to choose from.  Of those aged in barrels (or allegedly so), most satisfy where this Oak Barrel Stout fails.  

Yet, while it can not be recommended, nothing about this beer makes it one to avoid. This particular Oak Barrel Stout may be enjoyable, but not nearly as much so as others of its style. 

Cheers!

Lagunitas Undercover Investigation Shut-Down Ale

"Bittersweet", in the case of Lagunitas' Undercover Investigation Shut-Down Ale (from here on, "Undercover"), is really a wonderful battle of bitter versus sweet.

Undercover Investigation Shut-Down Ale

Lagunitas Brewing Company

9.75% ABV 

66.6 IBUs

This is a tremendously well balanced beer.  And, like most from Lagunitas, Undercover is far better than much of its competition at the same price point. 

Undercover's alcohol presence is high by volume, but only a bit more than moderately noticeable in taste.  Biting bitterness is tempered by a silky smooth, but not overbearing, sweetness.

Yet, this excellent balance is achieved at the sacrifice of anything wildly memorable about the flavor profile.

Upon pour, a head initially a finger and a half tall rests atop the beer, with the half-finger fading quickly.  Undercover appears ruddy orange, like a pumpkin far beyond being ripe, and is only translucent in the same sense as stained glass. 

Traces of spotty lacing.

The head, more foamy than creamy, stifles the flushness of the aroma, initially allowing only a hint of lemon to rise to the nose.  As the scent opens, it flourishes with a zesty orange nature and a characteristic difficult to pin down, but such that it provokes anticipation of resinous hops to follow. 

Undercover's mouthfeel is moderately thick, maybe even slightly more than moderate for an amber, and leaves some stickiness on the palate.  

Upon first sip, the hops initially sting the tip of the tongue and then relent.  Overt bitterness is not immediately evident but grows quickly in the aftertaste, as does the peppery hop spice.  Upon continued savoring, increasing bitterness is present with each of the following sips.  

Yet, while bitterness is certainly true, Undercover offers a strong caramel characteristic.  It is sweet; not like taffy, but something like a decadent toffee. Undercover is a successful exercise in dichotomy, effectively countering bitter with sweet. 

Lagunitas' beers are known for powerful, dank, piney notes.  Not here.  Undercover's most delicious traits derive from the malt profile, not from the hops.  

Lacking the trademark pine, Undercover is neither better nor worse than its Lagunitas brethren for it.  Just different.  

Given the history of its creation, Undercover seems surprisingly mature.  Perhaps the opposite of exotic. Undercover is the conservative take on a style shared by the much more wild  Ruination, Hop Stoopid, and Abrasive, et al.  

Beer worth raving about?  Probably not.  Yet, Undercover is one that Lagunitas has executed nearly without flaw. 

Undercover is a three star beer.  However, its value - of which Lagunitas always delivers (Undercover being below two dollars per bottle at the local Total Wine) - earns it an extra half star.  

So, 3.5 of 5 stars from TheCraftBeerGuru, with a recommendation (although second to other Lagunitas offerings including Sucks and Brown Shugga).

Cheers!